Skip to main content

Salumalek

Our first days here in Tajikistan have gone by incredibly fast. Flying in from Frankfurt via the very modern International Airport of Istanbul, pretty painless in spite of our winter outfits. Dressed in several winter layers (we are talking summer temperatures here in Dushanbe) to avoid overcharges on our 25 kilo luggage allowance, we must have looked like the illustrious Michelin man (and woman) preparing for your winter tires.
Arrival at Dushanbe Airport caused little to no problems although an arrival at 3 AM, of course, has its challenges. Usual delay at immigration to convert our letters of introduction to visas, after which we were picked up by one of the very nice employees of the local VSO office here and got our first (day-break) impression of the city. Wide boulevards, street decorations that if we didn’t know better,  appear to be very early Christmas lights and a lot of people sweeping leaves.
We are staying in the VSO office in a big guestroom with a kitchen, private bathroom and a garden where we have our morning coffees and breakfast. Weather here b.t.w.,  is beautiful; 80 F dry and sunny so perfect for long walks to explore the city when there is time.
From day one, we have been occupied with training-courses, language lessons and essentials such as getting permits and cell phones and dongles but the pace is relaxed enough after three months of US stress and the team and the other volunteers here are great so it’s very easy to get settled in. A lot of  ‘welcomes’ and introductions here so far.  Already, we have had a welcome lunch at the famous Dushanbe Tea house and a dinner at the Country Director’s home, with the most incredible vegetarian banquet (thank you Tom), where some of us practiced our karaoke skills.  And now it’s back to language lessons again.
The people here are really very kind and hospitable and leave you alone; there are a lot of international help workers here so we don’t stand out and with our first words of Pamiri and the international language of football, we have many pleasant encounters.

Some of the challenges volunteers face on a day-to-day level:  washing clothes by hand, no espresso coffee every morning, ‘interesting’ bed linen and towels, avoiding the traffic police (!), barking dogs – so what have we done to our pets in the West?  Cut their vocal chords?

So, for now, it’s back to the language lessons (we are learning the local dialect Shugni) of the Pamirs, where we will be working.

Qulug bishar! gai pass; thank you very much (and) Good bye

 
 


Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Dongles, Trotters and Opera

Detail of the famous Rohat National Tea House Welcome luncheon with VSO Tajikistan staff Ten days into our arrival and we're finding our way around this fascinating part of the world.  We're still in Dushanbe, waiting for permits to allow us into the GBAO (Gorno Badakhshan Autonomous Oblast); our final destination is Khorogh, in the Pamirs.  The town nestles between the mountains of Tajikistan and Afghanistan and is the Oblast's capital.  Twenty-eight thousand people, predominantly Ismaili Muslims, live here.    From Dushanbe,  Khorogh can be reached by either road (497 km) or small aircraft if the weather permits.      So, now we have completed our 10 day In Country Training and are ready and raring to start work as Tourism Advisors to the MSDSP (Mountain Societies Development Services Programme)....... Still in a holding pattern: gives us time to explore Dushanbe and its attractions.  Saturday, one of our co-volunteers...

Boom-boxes, Birds and Bush-masters

 Memories go back to  Tajikistan; here an Afghan trader at one of the border markets Our memories drift back to October 2010, Dushanbe, the Prospekt Medical Clinic at Rudaki Avenue, the boulevard that dissects the capital of Tajikistan......... .................As part of the VSO-CUSO in-country training programs, new arriving volunteers have to meet with the staff of an always private local hospital to understand, what living in a new environment means and what bacteria, viruses and rabid dogs are on the loose and will visit the ignorant new-comers (unfortunately with alarming frequency). In Dushanbe we meet with the (German) Herr Dr. Andreas Hencko, an interesting, quirky and fascinating character. The older volunteers, quite unceremoniously, refer to him as Dr. Death. In a mere 20 minutes he manages to scare the bejeezus out of us hardy volunteers, with stories about the use of un-boiled or untreated water (filter first, boil twice), meat bought at the local ...

Ephesus, revisited

I tried very hard to find the old olive tree, under which I was unceremoniously dumped exactly 35 and a half years ago by my school-friends, when we visited Ephesus on our grand tour of the Antiquities. There were five of us and we had decided that after 6 years of Gymnasium, (an education heavily concentrating on the Classics) it was time to visit the sites around the Aegean Sea ourselves and see what  all the fuss was about. We had read Plato, Ovid, Homer and Caesar’s De Bello Gallico ('Gallia est omnis divisa in partes tres') and knew everything about the heroes of the Trojan War.  In our sleep, we could recite the Histories of Herodotus ('so from here they went all through Milesia, 24 stations and 108 parasangs') or Homer ('Andra Moi Ennepe, Mousa', the beginning of the Odyssey). We bought ourselves a VW Van and, with typical Dutch efficiency, created a travel schedule that would have put any professional travel planner to shame. We mapped out eight weeks ...