Skip to main content

A Presidential visit

Beautiful People - celebrating the President at Central Park
 For the past few months, Khorog residents have been busy repaving roads, completing unfinished buildings, walls, park boundaries.  We’ve never seen such frantic activity, nor Khorog looking so ... spruced.  President Rahmon is on his rounds... he’s visited Penjikent, ........ and now it’s the turn of the capital of the Pamirs.  The response to this ‘State Visit’ is mixed.   Some people shrug their shoulders in resignation, others plan what they are going to wear and how they can finagle a ‘ring side seat’ for this parade.   And us?  We’re going fishing.  Well, we might wait until the weekend, when all the fuss is over.

The Pamiris seldom say 'No' to a photo op.
On his visit, the President opened the new Lycee, a gymnasium, amongst other notable activities.  The speechifying took place in Central Park, and of course, no-one but invited guests were able to get anywhere near the area.  The PECTA office, located in the Park, just yards from the centre of activity, was closed for the day.  No access.  Jelte did try to get in via an un-known rear entrance along the river.  Two guards with Kalashnikovs saw him off!!   Everyone (or almost) was dressed for the occasion, in suits, ties (which you almost never see in Khorog), Kyrgyz hats, Pamiri Hats, Pamiri traditional dress.  For women, red was the colour of the day.  

Red IS the colour
There is no florist in Khorog;  there just isn’t the disposable income to make it a viable business.  But on this day, there  were fresh flowers everywhere!!  Pot plants that must have been nurtured by just about every Khorog resident, lined the walkways and entrances of Central Park.  The Tajik flag flew everywhere as well as  from the highest mountain peaks (and they are still there).  A huge flag and welcome message adorned the mountain-side.    Jelte, I and a few stalwarts were busy with meetings while all of Khorog lined the streets to wave their  flags and welcome Him to Khorog.  And then it was over.  The pot plants went back indoors, the flowers were appropriated by those quick enough to claim them and the crowds dispersed.   Until the next time...... meanwhile, Jelte and I are off  fishing over the weekend  at  Yeshikul and Burunkul in the Murghab.  

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Beyond the Rupununi

Today is a day of celebration for us;  exactly a year ago we landed in Georgetown.  We can still remember the excitement in the pits of our stomachs when we saw the advertisement, inviting interested applicants to respond to an invitation to work with local Amerindian communities in the south of Guyana.... one of the three Guianas  - the other two being French Guyana (still a part of France, so no visa necessary for Europeans, and Suriname, which the Dutch (like the British did to Guyana) happily returned to their rightful owners.  So, here we are and apart from the fact that one is not tripping over wildlife and primary forest at every step, we have certainly not been disappointed.  Waiting for the boat to Rewa Eco Lodge John Gimlette's book 'Wild Coast' brings this part of the world to vivid  and at times, shocking, life.  Since our arrival in March last year, we have visited Suriname (Paramaribo), where one can live the life of the Dutch knowing that summer re

Spring and summer in Tajikistan

Spring has arrived; also in the Botanical Gardens It’s been over a month since we were last in touch……   No thanks to our Russian internet service providers on which we are so dependent.   But life trundles on here, albeit at a pace that makes us wonder what we will look like when we emerge in October from our Tajik chrysalis into the real world of stress and bits and bytes and innumerable options on the type of coffee we would like to order.   In Khorog, the choice of coffee is simple; instant – with or without sugar or milk.   That’s it!   No decisions over the fat content of the milk, no choice of sweetener and heaven forbid that you can decide on the roast of the bean, its origin or the depth of the froth on the drink.   So, THANK YOU to our friends for maintaining our Western stress levels.   We happily raise our coffee cups to you every morning when we brew our choice of ‘Seattle’s Best, Douwe Egbers, Lavazza, Illy, Peet’s (still on its way we hear but we look forward to it;

Boom-boxes, Birds and Bush-masters

 Memories go back to  Tajikistan; here an Afghan trader at one of the border markets Our memories drift back to October 2010, Dushanbe, the Prospekt Medical Clinic at Rudaki Avenue, the boulevard that dissects the capital of Tajikistan......... .................As part of the VSO-CUSO in-country training programs, new arriving volunteers have to meet with the staff of an always private local hospital to understand, what living in a new environment means and what bacteria, viruses and rabid dogs are on the loose and will visit the ignorant new-comers (unfortunately with alarming frequency). In Dushanbe we meet with the (German) Herr Dr. Andreas Hencko, an interesting, quirky and fascinating character. The older volunteers, quite unceremoniously, refer to him as Dr. Death. In a mere 20 minutes he manages to scare the bejeezus out of us hardy volunteers, with stories about the use of un-boiled or untreated water (filter first, boil twice), meat bought at the local mark